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🎮 Mr. Drew nodded his head and added that not only had he had them, but at that moment he was doctoring several. I tried for a solid hour, and not one wave could I persuade to boost me shoreward. And then arrived a friend, Alexander Hume Ford, a globe trotter by profession, bent ever on the pursuit of sensation. And he had found it at Waikiki. Heading for Australia, he had stopped off for a week to find out if there were any thrills in surf-riding, and he had become wedded to it. He had been at it every day for a month and could not yet see any symptoms of the fascination lessening on him. He spoke with authority.!

🏆 “Poor little chap! poor little chap!” “If there are sharks,” he demanded, “why don’t they show up?”!

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